Alphabet and motto motifs

Hailey Bieber wearing a sparkling, bubble-font ‘B’ necklace this summer was quite the moment. You could say it caused a stir – searches and sales went into overdrive, and it’s safe to say that letter jewelry, alphabet charms and motto motifs will continue to trend well into 2024. Personalize everyday styling by adding an initial pendant to your ‘neck mess’ – ultra-precious designs by Mateo, Anita Ko, Sydney Evan and Foundrae have unusual fonts and decorative settings, while Oscar de la Renta, Martha Calvo and Pacharee offer bigger and bolder demi-fine designs. Positive mantras played out in diamonds and solid gold are a savvy investment – ‘Love’ motifs are a bestselling design with universal appeal.

Black gold and diamonds

Whether it’s the persisting penchant for ’90s and 2000s fashion, or a kickback against the predictable influx of pastels each spring, jet-black jewels are set to be big in 2024. Fine jewelers are experimenting with onyx, black enamel and especially blackened metals – rhodium and blackened gold add a gritty edge to classic settings. Blackened biker chains come courtesy of Marla Aaron, while Jenna Blake’s oxidized settings frame each diamond with a striking border. Select sapphires that are pitch-black, discover the glossy gleam of black jade, and enjoy how black jewels effortlessly pair well with white gold, which continues to reign supreme this season.

Shell jewelry

Continuing from 2023’s ‘mermaid-core’ moment – a quirky result of the year’s hit movies The Little Mermaid and Barbie – beachy, bohemian jewels are set to be one of 2024’s top trends. Seashell motifs by Brent Neale, Almasika and Sydney Evan can be slipped into your existing earscape and wrist stack, while natural shells, pearl, palm-tree and shark-tooth motifs will bring coastal design codes into your collection for spring. Shells – often chosen for their talismanic symbolism – will prove especially popular; choose pieces that showcase the iridescent gleam of abalone, conch and mother of pearl.

Souped-up hoop earrings

The millennials among us will never forget the force that was Jennifer Lopez wearing huge hoop earrings circa 2003 in her hit music video Love Don’t Cost a Thing. Twenty years later, jumbo-sized jewels are back – and it’s time to soup up your hoop earrings once more. Lopez is a long-standing fan of Jennifer Fisher, and the New York-based designer’s ‘Sarah’, ‘3”” Thread’ and ‘2”” Thread’ styles are the perfect choice for lightweight, demi-fine designs. Those looking to invest in a solid-gold pair should opt for Anita Ko’s 18-karat gold oversized design, or Messika’s ‘Move Uno Large’ style. Keep the rest of your jewelry styling minimal – if you’re an incurable magpie and must add extra bling, make sure it’s a modern and minimalist choker that echoes a Y2K vibe.

A hero cuff

Expect a distinct shift away from whisker-fine chains layered 10 at a time, with a step towards chunky, ‘one and done’ designs. This is where the hero cuff comes in handy – providing a one-piece arm party. Modern and bold designs by Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta hail straight from this season’s ready-to-wear runways, while fine-jewelry designers are experimenting with sculpted gold and silver, mixed metal tones and vibrant gemstones. David Yurman’s ‘Renaissance’ and ‘Sculpted Cable’ styles are iconic odes to classic bangle design, while Amrapali London, Fred Leighton and Marina B explore semi-precious jewels and diamond detailing.